Day 3 - Incredible Beauty Day
Day 3 – Tuesday, Mar 24 – Exploring Day
I had planned a trip to Lauterbrunnen and the valley there, about 2.5 hours by train south of Basel. My interest in that location came from National Geographic, which named it the most beautiful valley in the world. How can anyone pass that up?!? However, on the Friday before I left Indy, I got an email that the tour company (Viator) could no longer accommodate me on this tour!! Though it was billed as a small group tour, I think it means they didn’t have enough people sign up. They offered me other tours to places I had already been (I said “No” politely); then they wanted me to join the Lauterbrunnen tour on Thursday, but of course I was not available on that day. Well, they apologized (this is all happening via email) but said I was in luck! I was still within the window that I could cancel my trip and get a full refund! WHAT?!?!?!?! Wow! Was I lucky! I wrote back and noted that THEY had cancelled my tour already, so I shouldn’t have to log-in or do anything but get my money back. Their next email was very conciliatory and obliging.
So, I made arrangements on my own to take the train there and do my own sightseeing. I checked sources online for what are the best 10 things to do in Lauterbrunnen (besides gawk at the scenery). So, with that list in my hand I was off to the main train station in Basel which was only a 10-minute walk from the hotel. I packed my backpack with an extra layer of clothing since I didn’t know how cold it would be, and I loaded my computer so I could read stuff I had loaded for just this occasion, as well as review the slides for the short course I was giving the next day.
My train left at 7:30, and as I travelled further south, I
was getting deeper and deeper into the Swiss Alps with increasingly beautiful
mountain views. I occasionally glanced through my slides for the short course
as I travelled, but the scenery was just too inviting.
The last stint on the train ride was a gradual ascent along a mountain stream (maybe a river) that arrived in Lauterbrunnen around 10:45.
It was absolutely stunning. The small town is nestled in a deep valley with sheer cliffs and steep mountains rising on either side.
My first stop was the information center that is at the edge of the town by the train station. Of course, I thought some locals could give me advice on which few things I could do while there. Alas, the information office is closed on Tuesdays! I was on my own to tough it out, so I just started to walk. There were a couple of hikes on my Top 10 list, and I just said, “Whichever one I come upon first is the one I will take.” As I walked through town, which was a quintessential Swiss village that you picture from the movie Heidi), little yellow information street signs were pointing in various directions. and I came upon one at the far end of town (about a 5-minute walk – it really is that small of a town) that said “Wengen.” I recognized the name, looked to where it might lead (it disappeared up a green pastured hillside), and said, “I must be off.”
As the trail wound out of town through some houses and pastures, I saw that there was a cogwheel train that made the ascent. Well, I had all day to explore so I remained committed to my hike and taking in the scenery. That was a crucial decision! The hike ended up being longer than expected (3.7 miles) and steeper than I could have ever imagined (121 flights of stairs) according to my iPhone health app. I had to stop many times along the way to catch my breath (of course, the air is getting thinner as I went higher). There was also a little demon on my left shoulder that kept saying, “You can just go down and try something else. There is no shame is giving up.” And there was a little angel on my right shoulder saying, “Keep the course. You can make it!” The incredible scenery – including some green pastures on steep hillsides with Edelweiss blooming in many places - was also a motivator as the view down to the valley and up to the snow-covered mountain peaks was inspiring.
Along the way I met an “elderly” German couple Heinz and Heidi (No, I am not making these names up! And as for “elderly” … well, they were younger than me!!!) who were coming down the trail from Wengen. There was a small bench and shelter where we took respite. It was fun talking to them about their travels, and like typical Germans they have been everywhere imaginable on vacations. They did bring up Trump, and I won’t get into details, but they did ask something like, “Can anyone figure out what is going on in his mind?” Enough of that. They told me I had about 40 -45 minutes left of hiking, which seemed doable.
There were signs along the way that gave a time (not distance) projection to get to Wengen. I think they were intended for young, fit hikers or they were estimated based on level terrain. For example, I came to one that said, “30 minutes.” OK. I can do 30 more minutes. Just stop, catch your breath, let your legs recover and press on. After hiking for another 15 minutes up the very steep trail, I got to the next sign that said, Wengen, 25 minutes.” What?! And I hiked another 15 minutes, and a sign read “Wengen, 15 minutes.” The demon was badgering me, “You don’t need to do this.” I met a couple with two children that were doing the hike. They seemed to be familiar with the whole ordeal. We walked together for a while, stopping with each other and chatting. When I saw, with discouragement, “Wengen, 10 minutes,” I asked the guy, “How far is it, really?” He pointed up the mountain a little bit and said, “It’s just beyond those trees.” Well, I could see where he was pointing, and though I could not see the town up the mountain, it appeared very doable. So, off I went. Sure enough, I got around that bank of trees and I was in the little town of Wengen. Again, there were the perfect Swiss mountain chalets and lots of small, boutique hotels and bed-and-breakfasts.
I got through the houses on the suburbs of the town (about 40 of them) and made it to the train station and the edge of the village.
Well, the reward for the arduous 1 hour and 45 minutes hike was worth it! The demon was off my shoulder. I paused at the edge of the town and did a 360-degree rotation to take in the mountains still above me and the valley from which I had come. Amazing!!!
I was hungry and thirsty, so I went to the first place I could see, which was a restaurant with an outdoor patio not far in front of me – the Eiger Terrasse, in reference to the Eiger mountain nearby (made even more famous by the 1975 movie, The Eiger Sanction with Clint Eastwood in the starring role). I sat down for lunch and the view was beyond words – Stunning? Gorgeous? Spectacular? Superb? Awestruck? Mesmerized? Enthralled? All of them fall short. Just look at the view from my outdoor table.
Now, you might be wondering about the temperature. Yes, there was snow on the ground. Yes, there were lots of people skiing just a little further up the mountain. But it was sunny and clear and no wind. It was about 50-55 degrees while I was there, so it felt comfortable with my shirt and pullover (not to mention I had generated a lot of heat energy walking!).
The waiter was buzzing around serving the ten tables on the terrace. He was accommodating patrons by speaking German, English (me), French and Italian. All of these countries are not that far from Wengen, and I learned that Wengen is a popular skiing destination. I ordered the spaghetti bolognese, as anyone who knows me would understand. As always, I asked for extra bolognese. When the waiter arrived with my food, there was a large bowl of spaghetti covered with bolognese and a gravy boat with more bolognese in it. He said, “Here you are sir – bolognese served with a side of spaghetti.” We had a laughed together. It was delicious!!!
During lunch I saw way off in the distance a helicopter drop some skiers on the top/side of a mountain and they skied off a cliff and opened their parasail/parachutes and ride the wind currents in the valley until they disappeared. Amazing! I walked around town after lunch, then took the train down the mountain to save time.
The next stop was Trümmelbach Falls about 2.5 miles walk from the train station. It is an enormous waterfall system inside of one of the mountains. The glacial melt has carved a “canyon” inside the mountain. So, I walked through the valley with very steep cliffs on either side. There is a waterfall that comes off one fo the cliffs and tumbles 1000 feet to the valley floor.
The walk went through pasture lands where farmhouses had many, many cords of split firewood stacked outside. When I finally found my way to the little, tiny village of Trummelbach, I followed the signs to the Falls. Lo and behold, the Falls were closed for the season and would be opning on Saturday. Wow! Another strike on my scorecard. The info desk probably would have told me that … if only it had been open. And, by the way, how do you close a waterfall? Inside a mountain?? Oh well, the hike was scenic beyond description, and I got to see more parasailers gliding over my hear, which was pretty cool. Nonetheless, it was a 2.5 mile hike back to the town Lauterbrunnen. It was tiring at this point, and I was so glad I did Wengen first. I probably would not have done that if I had seen Trummelbach first. And there was no place of any note to eat in Trummelbach! So, chalk it up to I’d rather be lucky than good.
Back in town I relaxed as the day was coming to a close. I found a Magnum bar (ultra-good ice cream on a stick for those who don’t know) and sat on a bench and watched many skiers who were coming down from the slopes and a perfect day of skiing (I assume). My train back to Basel was at 6:00pm (i.e., 1800), and I planned to do some reading for articles I had loaded on my computer. When I got on the train and got settled, I pulled out my computer and power cord and … I forgot my adapter! Well, I’ll have to pick up on that reading another time. The trip was uneventful. I arrived at the Basel SBB station and got back to the hotel around 9:15pm after a long day of walking. BUT IT WAS WORTH IT!!! Check that off the lifetime list of things to do – visit the most beautiful valley in the world … check.
OK. Apologies for that long account, but … well, … no apologies. I take that back. I am writing this to help me remember this wonderful day. I hope you enjoyed it vicariously through me.
I won’t go into details, but Mark/Carol were sending pictures
from their travels in the Black Forest while Don/Beanie were cavorting around
Zurich.
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